Basilica di Santa Croce
The Basilica di Santa Croce (1549) in Lecce appears suddenly, you turn a corner and it’s THERE without warning. And you are forced to deal with it. It is the mother lode of the Baroque, probably the most Baroque of all the Baroques!
It is not just a church but a confection of stone—griffons, lions, and garlands of flowers seem to sprout from every available inch of its limestone surface.
It was a single glimpse of Santa Croce in a guidebook that made me say “I think I need to see this in real life.”
Walking into Santa Croce is like slipping into a pastry shell too intricate to eat. Inside, the decor is quieter but not by much!
Celestine V
𝗖e𝗹𝗲𝘀𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗲 𝗩 is my favorite pope because his story is so tragic.
In 1292 the College of Cardinals were unable for two years to elect a Pope due to a stalemate. The college had allegiances evenly split between two rival powerful Roman families. After many failed deliberations held in various places they met in Perugia and had their final conclave in the cloisters of San Lorenzo.
It was there that they learned of a devout 80 year old reclusive hermit who had been living in a cave in the mountains for 50 years, Pietro da Morrone. The idea of electing this man Pope was a compromise for both sides and each thought he would be easy to control. Pietro da Morrone was elected unanimously without his knowledge. When the Papal delegates informed him of this, the poor old man refused and tried to flee! He was captured and forced into the pontifical vestments. As Pope Celestine V, probably the most unhappy of all the Popes, he served for just five months when he finally convinced the church to allow him to abdicate. All he wanted was to return to his mountain refuge but the next Pope instead imprisoned him where he died just 10 months later.
Celestine V is largely forgotten to time so imagine my surprise in seeing him in Santa Croce in Lecce.
